Psycho Tower

Most of the famous sandstone towers of the Colorado Plateau are in Utah, but one of the very best moderate towers is found in a little-traveled canyon in far southwestern Colorado. Psycho Tower is a 200-foot, seldom-climbed beauty in Big Gypsum Canyon, above the Dolores River. From some angles, it looks a bit like the GEICO lizard standing up on its hind legs.

Stephen Venables follows the Psycho-Path.

The normal route (Psycho-Path, 5.9+) spirals around the tower in three short pitches—you can add a somewhat sporty bolted face pitch (5.11-) at the bottom, but this is easily avoided. After a fun pitch with a couple of bolts and easy crack and flake climbing, you arrive at the business: A heart-stopping traverse over space above a huge roof. This lead is extremely well-protected, with closely spaced bolts, but your feet are on small holds just inches above the lip, with a drop of several hundred feet below. A final bolt-protected pitch, with the route’s crux moves, gains the summit.

Highly recommended! Find more photos and info on the route here.