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Psycho Tower

November 12, 2009 Classics, Climb No Comments
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Psycho Tower

Most of the famous sandstone towers of the Colorado Plateau are in Utah, but one of the very best moderate towers is found in a little-traveled canyon in far southwestern Colorado. Psycho Tower is a 200-foot, seldom-climbed beauty in Big Gypsum Canyon, above the Dolores River. From some angles, it looks a bit like the GEICO lizard standing up on its hind legs.

Stephen Venables makes the traverse on Psycho Path.

Stephen Venables follows the Psycho-Path.

The normal route (Psycho-Path, 5.9+) spirals around the tower in three short pitches—you can add a somewhat sporty bolted face pitch (5.11-) at the bottom, but this is easily avoided. After a fun pitch with a couple of bolts and easy crack and flake climbing, you arrive at the business: A heart-stopping traverse over space above a huge roof. This lead is extremely well-protected, with closely spaced bolts, but your feet are on small holds just inches above the lip, with a drop of several hundred feet below. A final bolt-protected pitch, with the route’s crux moves, gains the summit.

Highly recommended! Find more photos and info on the route here.

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Recent Comments

  • Steveo: I agree the platte has so much to offer, but Hass, there are going to be a lot of locals looking over your shoulders mak...
  • MoJo: These stories have not been collected in book form, though there is a manuscript. We obtained the manuscript and permiss...
  • MJ: Is this available as a book for purchase anywhere? These are great stories!...
  • Jared Wolney: I skinned, hiked and skied the east face of Peale solo on April 9th. I started hiking and skinning at 7:00, and made it...
  • MoJo: Yes, Dorothy Collier was struck by lightning inside the cabin, but she was not killed. Merrrill Mattes, another Longs Pe...
  • Clare Cone: Was Dorothy struck by lightning up there ? Is that to follow is subsequent stories ? I was just yesterday telling my 9 y...
  • Amelia: Very excited to read these stories! Thanks for publishing them....
  • Wick: Really? Are there THAT many people skiing this route? Its only right off of 550...go in deeper if you don't want to be...
  • Joseph Crotty: Jason, Nice job and congrats on the send! Clearly a labor of love....
  • choss master: always wanted to ski the la sals......

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Firsts

A Fine Line on Arrowhead

March 26, 2010

A Fine Line on Arrowhead

Climbers Scotty Nelson and Gil Weiss have discovered (or maybe rediscovered) a great-looking moderate mixed route in Rocky Mountain National Park that might take pressure off overcrowded climbs like Dream Weaver or Martha. The line, which they called Deborah, splits the south face of Arrowhead above the high bench to the west of Black Lake [...]

Shelf Road’s Hardest Route Climbed

March 10, 2010

Shelf Road’s Hardest Route Climbed

Colorado’s Shelf Road , a network of vertical limestone cliffs near Cañon City best known for sunny moderates, has a new 5.13d pitch and may soon get its first 5.14. On Sunday, March 7, Mark Anderson redpointed a striking, super-technical arête at Cactus Cliff that was bolted in the early 1990s but apparently never free-climbed. [...]

New Route Likely Platte’s Hardest

February 14, 2010

New Route Likely Platte’s Hardest

Jason Haas, who’s working on a new guidebook to South Platte rock climbs, has just redpointed what’s likely the Platte’s hardest pitch, a roof seam that’s protected with removable pro and might be 5.14a. The new route, Comprometido, took about a year and a half to complete. Here, Haas tells the story.
While researching routes [...]

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Classics

Brain Freeze on Mt. Otis

March 18, 2010

Brain Freeze on Mt. Otis

In the heart of Rocky Mountain National Park, a granite spindle called Zowie protrudes from the convoluted south face of Mt. Otis. Just to Zowie’s left is a zigzagging chimney and gully system that holds an unlikely mixed-climbing gem. Brain Freeze was discovered very recently (early 2008) by Andy Grauch and Chris Sheridan. Several parties [...]

Lake Agnes–Seven Utes Loop

February 19, 2010

Lake Agnes–Seven Utes Loop

Kevin Landolt is a skier/climber/student, based in Fort Collins, who writes the fun Alpine Ambition blog for the Mountain Shop. Here, Kevin describes a favorite midwinter ski tour near Cameron Pass offering a little of everything.
Trailhead: Lake Agnes Road, 2.5 miles west of Cameron Pass
Tour Distance: 7.3 miles
Total Vert: ca. 2,900′
Season: Midwinter to spring; two [...]

Mr. and Mrs. Mesa

January 28, 2010

Mr. and Mrs. Mesa

Two of the wildest and most difficult water-ice pitches in the state are in plain view from Highway 50, en route to Ouray and Telluride from points north, plunging down the sheer face of Grand Mesa. Yet few people notice them, and far fewer have climbed them. The routes are tough, to be sure, but [...]

East Ridge of Mt. Bancroft

December 28, 2009

East Ridge of Mt. Bancroft

Mt. Bancroft’s rocky east ridge is a terrific mountaineering adventure for Front Range climbers, beginning less than an hour from Denver. The 13,250-foot peak is relatively close to the road, and avalanche danger can be easily managed, making this perhaps the most accessible technical winter summit on the entire Front Range. The east ridge offers [...]

Wild

Rarities: Wolf Moon, Arapaho Peaks

February 5, 2010

Rarities: Wolf Moon, Arapaho Peaks

Photographer James Beissel sent us this fantastic dawn-patrol shot of the full moon setting over South and North Arapaho in the Indian Peaks, shot from Flagstaff Mountain. Said Beissel: ”The first full moon of the New Year is often called the Wolf Moon. The name comes from Native American culture, in which it was associated with [...]

New Deal for Great Sand Dunes

January 20, 2010

New Deal for Great Sand Dunes

By Bob Berwyn
Stakeholders in the San Luis Valley have taken a giant step toward protecting Great Sand Dunes National Park from mining, energy development, and water exports. Lexam Explorations has agreed to sell its mineral rights if a $9.7 million deal can be finalized by May.
Great Sand Dunes National Park was created by Congress [...]

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